Xiamen's Beauty in 1860

Bill Brown ... Xiamen University

In 1860, Miss Jane Edkin letters home went on at such great length about the beauties of Amoy (now called Xiamen) that she was accused of mixing religion and nature! I think you'll enjoy her descriptions.

TO HER BROTHER SIMON.
From AMOY, 20th April 1860.
HERE we are at Amoy. A passage of ten days in the "Palmerston" brought us, if not rapidly, at least safely.

I think I feel better for it already, though the heat is very great. We anchored outside, on a beautiful moonlight evening. The scenery all round was enchanting. Noble hills of rocky brown overhung the entrance, crowned by pagodas, etc. Rocky islands, the abode of wild fowl, encircled us. The sun poured his last mellow rays o'er the delightful scene as we entered, and my heart bounded with joy at the sight. Stretching on each side, peak above peak, and peak beyond that, were high rocky hills. The sunlight gave a golden tinge to their brown grassy covering, and a warmer tint to their rocky sides. At their foot a beautiful sandy beach, smooth and glittering, extended for some distance. It was a most charming scene, and one that filled the heart. I cried with joy almost to see home hills again, for so they seemed to me.

The noise of the dropping anchor, and the hearty song of the men, did not interrupt me as my thoughts went home to dearly loved Scotland. It was especially pleasant to come up on deck after tea in the soft moonlight, when all was still, save the silent tread of the watch whenever the helm was deserted, and the white sails furled, and gaze up through the tall masts and rigging to the fair heaven so beautifully blue and sparkling. The dark hills on each side, and the soft gurgle of the waters as they gently passed by, added to the impressiveness of the scene. Mr. Edkins and I sat a long time delighting in it, and felt its strangeness and beauty heightened still more as the lightning's vivid flash frequently lighted up the dark hills for a moment.

Next morning early, Mr. Edkins called me to look at the opening bay as we entered it. I was busy packing, so I had only glimpses here and there, but these were striking. High rocks, of all sorts and sizes, line one side of the bay, many of them grown over with moss. Some of them have long weird-like inscriptions, and some seemed tottering, ready to fall.

Nestling under them was the little town of Amoy, before which we cast anchor about nine A.M. We proceeded direct to the Rev. John Stronach's, where we are now staying….

…after dinner, we had a boat-excursion, in company with Mr. J. Stronach, his sister, and young Miss Stronach.

This recalled the olden time in Stromness harbour. "We rowed and talked agreeably, though my enthusiasm about the hills…Through many an opening in the rocky hills we saw temples hid among trees, looking so picturesque, built out on jutting rocks. I wish I had my young strength again, to climb at will those mountain rocks and wild romantic paths, all in a state of nature, untouched by the rude hand, shall I call it, of cultivation…

In the afternoon, Jessie, her father, Mr. Edkins, and I, went over to Kolangsu, a lovely island about half a mile's run across. We landed, climbed the beach, and reached abroad graveled walk arched with trees, then we entered a garden where roses, mignonette, and many other exquisite flowers, bloomed beautifully. The rocks were on either side like a wall to it, but their bare exterior was clothed with honeysuckle and green creepers. From that we passed into another, and then, by some steps, reached a little hill. By a path that wound round it we gained the top of one height, from which we had an interesting view of Amoy. Her navy of junks, her small fishing-boats, all lay close together in a sheltered corner, while the English ships lay outside. The houses are poor, both those of the merchants and missionaries, in comparison with those at Shanghai; but from Kolangsu all looked pretty. We descended, and by paddy-fields of fresh green we reached another hill, which we slowly climbed, and the view to the other side of the island was most captivating. The broad sea, broken here and there by islets, and bounded by magnificent hills, all bursting as it did on us without expecting it, had a powerful effect. I forgot my weariness, and gazed long on this noble prospect. Hills and sea give a higher idea of the beauty of nature than any artificial cultivation, however rich. "The everlasting hills," and the ever-changing sea," are to me the noblest works o nature. But the beauties round our feet were not to be overlooked.

A broad, wide-spreading banian tree, with its thick foliage, stood proudly queen of the scene; while a lovely tangled path, damp and cool, led us on where we wished to go,—to the resting-place of the dead. In a beautiful nook, under the sheltering wing of the dark rocks, and on a pleasant acclivity, lay the graves of those missionaries who had lived and died for Christ…

3. TO HER MOTHER-IK LAW. from AMOY, 18th May 1860.
It is nearly three weeks since we came to Amoy. We have been much benefited by its health-giving sea breezes. The scenery around greatly interests me. What with its rocks, mountains, beautiful islands, and blue sea sparkling, dashing, and foaming in all its fresh beauty around the town, I am exceedingly taken with it. … We have Chinese chapels. It was a sweet Sabbath morning when I first went to ours. For a considerable time before going, I had been seated in a low chair in our room, with a book before me; my head and heart were somehow not with it, but were drinking in the attractive beauties of the scene that presented itself from the wide open window. High, noble craggy hills, with mossy brown, still retained the warm glow of the soft embrace of the morning. A misty beauty hung around, though the sky was blue and unclouded. The little islands rejoiced in the fair morning, and the very sea murmured a lullaby of peace. Oh, the peaceful Sabbath morn.

How the heart rises and glows with love and joy, especially when all nature calls upon you to rejoice. Would that the pleasurable feeling that steals over the heart at such times could be retained.

My husband has taken part repeatedly in the work of the Mission, but being here for the benefit of our health, we have kept moving about, sight-seeing, rowing in small boats, picnicking, calling, etc. He has had great enjoyment in wandering among the old temples, deciphering the more than half-worn characters on many an aged rock, etc.

…This is a bright sunshiny morning after the rain, and everything looks fresh and lovely. I don't know how it is, but a familiar sound keeps ringing in my ears, it seems so applicable this bright May morning— "
Birds are singing,
Bells are ringing,
May is bringing
Gifts to man."
With best love to yourself, Ebenezer, Kate, and John, your very affectionate JEANIE.

4. TO MISS EDKINS, SHANGHAI, June 1860.
I HAVE been greatly remiss in writing, but when I plead sickness for excuse, you will, I know, forgive me freely. Yet sickness won't do for a full apology, as I have only been on the sick list for a week or so, but then an endless succession of changes and visitors these several weeks past has put all idea of quiet letter- writing enjoyment out of the question. I had a letter nearly finished for you when we were at Amoy, but it is now of such an old date, that I won't send it, although I shall give you some of the particulars in this…

…First of all, we enjoyed Amoy, and the scenery, and the mission work unspeakably. It is, to my taste, a delightful place, being perfectly surrounded with what I call Scotland's heathery hills. Oh, the flood of beauty tinting those hills when the sun slowly sinks to rest,—when lingeringly it leaves them, and casts its glowing mantle tenderly o'er their rugged rocky sides, softening them to melting beauty.

We spent one lovely afternoon over at Kolangsu, a small island near Amoy, where, from an eminence, we had a most interesting view of the town, its complete little harbour, navy of junks, etc.; and where, from another, we had a view of a broad expanse of water, intersected by sweet islets, calm and unruffled, dashing softly on the sandy beach, while the background of mountains was truly majestic, raising as they did their rugged tops to the fair sky, and winning the soft shadows from the untroubled clouds of blue that ever and again passed swiftly over them. …

By the way, your brother says I blend the beauties of nature almost into religion in my description in some letters. I doubt if he is right in saying this. Don't you think, if gazing on beautiful scenery stirs the soul, and raises it to admiration, it must naturally rise to nature's God before the full idea of grandeur and glory settles on the soul?
But I fear I am now mystifying both you and myself….

5. TO HER MOTHER. June 1860.
WE are safely back again from Amoy, by way of Hong Kong, after enjoying our trip exceedingly, and being much benefited by it.

Source: Edkins, Jane Rowbotham Stobb,s Chinese Scenes and People: With Notices of Christian Missions and Missionary Life in a Series of Letters from Various Parts of China, James Nisbit and Company, London, 1863
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